SCUBA

Dylan, Annie and I are now certified open water divers!  (Or will be when our PADI cards come in the mail.)  What a wonderful, life changing experience!

I never in a million years even thought about SCUBA diving.  It wasn’t on my bucket list, and honestly when I heard it was big here, I did not see myself doing it.  All that changed when the kids came for Christmas.  Charlie wasn’t too interested.  Swimming is not really his thing, but Annie and Dylan were up for a challenge, and I selfishly wanted to spend as much time doing things with the kids as I could.  

My first step was to contact the Dive Shop on base.  They gave me a list of instructors who they thought would be around during the holidays.  The regularly scheduled classes didn’t fit our time frame, so I was hoping we could do a private class.  The first instructor I was able to get a hold of was very agreeable to setting up a class for us, and as it turns out he is a Montanan! His brother is a doctor in Helena… my friend is a doctor in Helena…. 6 degrees of Kevin Bacon here we are!

First step toward certification is to learn about the sport.  We had to read a book and watch videos and take several quizzes.  

Second step toward certification is to learn how to use the equipment.  We went to the Marine Hill Pool to do this part.  We learned several skills  in the pool:  how to take our BCD (Buoyancy Control Device) on and off in the water, how to inflate the BCD with air from the tank and  from our lungs, how to clear water out of our mask and the challenging one for Annie how to remove and replace the mask underwater.

Finally, we had to do four separate dives in the open water (Caribbean Sea).  For this we went to the Training area at Cable Beach.  The waves can be a little challenging at this beach, so they have a rope attached to a piece of cement to help get past the breakers.  Then they tie a buoy to another piece of cement 50 yards (or so.. I am so bad with distance) from the first rope.  The first open water lesson was to learn how to get to the buoy, to descend on the rope, and practice getting our buoyancy.  We did swim a short distance and ascended and swam back in… use the rope to help us get in past the breakers.

Once out of the water we completed our dive log and planned our second dive for that day.  We had to complete more of the dive skills that we had practiced in the pool and we swam a little more and really enjoyed the dive.

On our third dive we were learning to use our compass and how to navigate.  When we descended to the training area, Russ was giving us  directions on the navigation skills when I looked up and saw a Manatee swimming right behind him – not even 10 feet away.  It took a couple of moments of me pointing to get his attention, but you could tell he was as excited about it as we were.  He was even more excited when he realized that Dylan had caught it all on film.  Russ told us later that was only the second time he had seen a manatee while diving at GTMO.  

 

Dylan was able to finish his certification that day, but Annie had a training for work to go to so she and I had to wait to finish.   One of the delays for Annie and I was there had been a suspected problem with the air on base, so no one could get a tank filled.  In the meantime Dylan told Annie she would need to remove her mask for the final dive.  Since she had difficulty cleaning her mask of water on the third dive, she was really nervous about it.  When Russ met us for what was supposed to be dive four, the waves were so bad they had shut down the bay to diving for the remainder of that day.  (I believe Annie prayed so hard for wind, that she prayed everyone out of the water.)  Then the Wounded Warriors were here for diving (more on that in a future blog), so Annie and I had to wait until our instructor was available.

Finally, yesterday, January 26th we were able to make our forth dive.  Russ’s friend and fellow instructor Carlton joined us for the last dive.  Now Russ said Carlton was bored and volunteered to come help us do the last dive.  I think Russ recruited Carlton in case Annie or I flipped out one him.  Either way, we had one on one instruction for the last dive… very cool.   And neither of us flipped out… just for the record.

I developed a very sophisticated sand dollar containment device (SDCD) to collect sand dollars safely.  I was intent on this mission when were swimming, so I wasn’t as aware as I should have been.  I saw Carlton point, but I thought he was just pointing us in a direction to swim… he was really pointing out a shark and a barracuda swimming above the reef in front of him.  I totally missed it.  At the end of our dive we had two skills to finish.  The first was to remove the mask underwater, the second was to practice a safety stop.  I completed the mask skill, then it was Annie’s turn.  She couldn’t do it at that moment.  She was too nervous.  We did the ascent and safety stop.

Russ kept Annie in the water at a shallower depth to finish the skills.  Apparently on her first attempt. she threw her mask when she took it off, but luckily Russ was able to retrieve it.  On the second attempt, she was able to complete the task!  

This morning she told me she wanted a lazy day because yesterday she was nearly eaten by a shark and nearly drowned by her diving instructor…..such a sad life.

Christmas in Cuba

The boys are gone (sad face), and Annie and I miss them terribly.  We had a fabulous Caribbean Christmas!  I am feeling very blessed right now.  Thus our Christmas adventure formally comes to an end.  It was not a typical or traditional Christmas, but it certainly will be a memorable one!

It was hard to get in the spirit of Christmas with 90 degree weather, so we had to improvise.  We still hung our stockings and the kids indulged me in watching “It’s a Wonderful Life”.  I made Christmas cookies and Gingerbread, but that is where tradition ended.

We have the good fortune of being confined to a base; therefore most base recreational facilities and activities are open to all base residents.  Most things are either free or only require a minimal fee.  So here are the list of things we took advantage of:

We watched several movies at the Lyceum….  The Hobbit, American Hustle, Saving Mr. Banks, Anchorman 2….

Movies GTMO style are at an outdoor movie theater “downtown”.  Many people like to bring their own chairs for more comfort.  At the beginning of every movie, the audience stands for a Star Spangled Banner video depicting our service men and woman.

We went to the beach… Natalie likes the sea breeze, but not the rocks on the beach.

We played Folf…

We ate….

We enjoyed the pools…

We participated in a paintball tournament…

We went to the beach….

We ate at the Galleys.

We snorkeled….

We took SCUBA classes

We went bowling….

We paddle boarded

We met a few Iguanas….

We ate …..

We visited a WWI and WWII era fort on the other side of the bay.  Ft. Conde is more like a series of underground bunkers.  It is now the home to bats and other creatures.  We visited the fort on Christmas day with some friends from school.  Unfortunately our adventure was cut short that day due to the rain.

We worshiped at the Chapel….

We Kayaked….

We met Mike the Manatee…

We laughed, we teased each other, we ate a lot of food, and oh yeah, we went to the beach.

I am so thankful that I have had this opportunity to give my children a Christmas memory that I could never have afforded without this job.  I am also so thankful for the support of my friends and family.  I would not have had the courage to take this risk had you all not been there encouraging me.  Love and Holiday Greetings to all.

Come visit us!  It is a little spendy getting here, but once you are here we will take good care of you!  Our next visitor is Aunt Linda for Spring Break… can’t wait!!!

The Northeast Gate – GTMO

On the third Thursday of the month the Marines who are charged with the security of the border between the NAVSTA – Guantanamo Bay and the Republic of Cuba give a tour of the Northeast Gate.  Prior to Castro’s revolution, this gate served as the official port of entry for the more than 3000 Cubans who worked on the base, and other visitors who went back and forth between the base and Cuba.  After Castro’s rise to power he limited the entry to only those Cuban citizens who already had a job at the base.  He would not allow any other Cubans to obtain employment on the base.  In 1959 he prohibited car travel to the gate and the number of workers on base from Cuba dropped to only about 300.  These workers were allowed entry until their retirement.  The final two Cuban’s retired in 2012.

Territorio Libre de America

The phrase Territorio Libre de America is a Castro slogan which has been translated as either, “Free Territory of America” or “Territory free of America”.  One translation implies that the Republic of Cuba is a Free Territory, something millions of Cuban exiles and dissidents would take issue with.  The other translation implies that the Republic of Cuba is free of American influence – a way of insulting America.

Land Mines

During the height of the cold war the US placed nearly 54,000 land mines on our side of fence line.  The Cubans are estimated to have about 64,000.  During President Clinton’s presidency it was concluded that the land mines on the US side really only posed a hazard to our own US servicemen and women.  So the US set out to remove the mines.  Although maps of the mine field were made, they didn’t prove to be as accurate as we would have liked and the process of removing mines was very slow.  In the process, one engineer was killed in a land mine explosion.  At that point the removal process was suspended.  It is estimated that there are about 15 mines left on the perimeter.  Therefore, the phrase “stay on the path” has a slightly more significant meaning here in GTMO than it may in the National Forest of Montana.

My flag is bigger than your flag….. and other cold war games

In the early years of Castro regime, there was a lot of conflict around the Northeast Gate.  Many of these conflicts were relatively benign nuisances.  At the Marine Barracks on sight, the Cubans would fling rocks over the fence all night in an effort to disrupt the Marine’s sleep.  Soon after the Seabees came in and erected a two story fence to protect the barracks from the rock assault.

Next the Cubans realized that the barracks were hot and the Marines would keep the windows open at night, so they flooded the barracks with light at night.  Marines were faced with the choice of closing the window shutters to keep the light out, and sleep in stifling heat, or keeping the windows open to have the benefit of whatever breeze may be blowing and enduring the bright flood lights. Again the Seabees were brought in.  This time they erected a huge tent in front of the barracks and worked on a secret project…. When the tent finally came down and the flood lights were lit, the lights illuminated the Marine Symbol on the hill below the barracks.  The Cubans discontinued the use of the flood lights.

The American erected a flag pole that was taller than the Cuban Flag Pole… so the Cubans placed their flag on the hill, so it would always be taller.  These were a few of the ways the guards on both sides of the fence antagonized each other.

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The Gate Today

The fence line is still patrolled by Marines and Cubans, but the tensions of the cold war have greatly relaxed.  Starting in about 2001, monthly meetings between the two security forces were initiated. The purpose of the meeting is to discuss issues of safety.  There have been incidences, like wild fires, where the forces have worked cooperatively to address the emergency.  The meetings were initiated to facilitate the handling of such emergencies.  They now involve monthly meetings/lunches alternately hosted by each side.  A couple of months ago, the Marines brought Taco Bell food as a joke, and the Cubans were amused!

In my humble opinion, it will not be the leaders of nations or the ambassadors from the state departments that will settle our disputes.  It will be the lunches between “adversaries” that will bring lasting peace.

Officially the state department does not recognize these monthly meetings.

Charlie, Annie and Dylan

Thanksgiving Blessings

Thanksgiving in GTMO was definitely unlike any thanksgiving I have ever spent in my life.  Wednesday night after school, Annie and I took the ferry to the Leeward side of the base.  We met up with several teachers and stayed at the Navy Gateway Lodge on that side of the base.  From our window we could see the fence separating the base from Cuba and some of the guard posts.

We went to the beach and had it almost to ourselves.  It was in the high 80’s low 90’s.  The Caribbean is always bath water warm.

After beach time, we went to the Leeward Galley for Dinner.  The staff had out done themselves.  They had dolphin ice sculptures and several vegetable flower sculptures.  It was beautiful.  They offered a traditional Thanksgiving fare.  There were about 10 of us gathered to give thanks!  Blessings abound.

I can’s say it “felt” like Thanksgiving.  We really missed our family and our holiday traditions, but it was definitely nice in its own way.  We talked with teachers who have lived all over the world and learned the Okinawa, Japan is probably one of the nicest places on the planet… at least according to every teacher who has ever worked there.

 

Annie and I in the Caribbean!  The water was warm and clear and beautiful!

Annie in GTMO

I am so happy that Annie is here to share this adventure.  It has been a difficult transition for her.  She has the best friends in the world in Libby and she misses them terribly.  However, she is making new friends.  I think this will be an experience that will be invaluable to her in so many ways.  I think GTMO will be better because of her.  She is an amazing young woman of compassion.  It bothers her that the Jamaicans and Filipinos are used as servants and are not treated as equals.  She has already sought out one of my students to befriend because she was worried that he was eating alone.

Academically she has some catching up to do  She is in Spanish and Biology which she didn’t have in Montana.  She is also enrolled in an honors English and History.  She seems to like her classes and teachers.

Annie meets the locals!

Checking out the Hutia Hiway!

Natalie and Annie snuggle together.  I am not sure who had missed who more.

Annie was able to get in on the end of the soccer season.  Soccer is sponsored by MWR (Morale, Welfare and Recreation).  They play on a field of artificial turf under the big lights!

These two young ladies have been very sweet to Annie and are helping her get settled in GTMO.  This was a day at Windmill Beach!

Manatee Capture Part 2

Well the research team had a successful capture event. Unfortunately I was not able to be part of a capture – I was picking Annie up at the airport when they caught their first one, and then I had to go back to work.

I did get to be part of a manatee escape event. We had set a land net at one entrance to Manatee Cove and the Capture boat was at the other entrance. We had an adult come into the net, but then escaped under the net.

All together the team was able to capture 4 adults and three calves. They transported the manatees to shore where a medical team took a variety of samples. Four of the manatees were tagged with a transmitter. In this picture you can see the belt that is around the tail area. The blue item is a transmitter that is attached by a rod to the belt. It sits like a bobber on the surface when the manatee is near the surface. This allows the signal to be transmitted more reliably. The belt and bobber are constructed so they will break off if it gets stuck. They will also eventually fall off in an about a year. They would like to get a year’s data for each tagged animal.

Manatees must have fresh water. The group in the bay find their way to the Guantanamo River about once every 7-10 days to get fresh water. They can go as long as 20 days without fresh water, but they do need it. They are vegetarians … feeding on sea grass. There are several sub-species. These are Antillian Manatees and are slightly smaller than their Florida cousins.

Manatees have been on the endangered species list due to aggressive hunting and boat/manatee accidents since the 1970s. Conservation efforts have been effective and the numbers have improved so much they may be delisted in the near future.

This picture is courtesy of the US Geological Survey and the United State Navy.

Magical Mystery

This was the first time I have ever seen a jelly fish in the wild.  They are beautiful and graceful.  Words don’t do them justice!

Manatee Capture Project

Today we did some training for the Manatee rescue project.  This is the best manatee picture I could get.  They surface just long enough to take a breath.  The research team has confirmed that they have seen 12 separate animals in the bay.  I now know how to spot them.  

Land spotters with radios communicate with the rescue boat who then sets nets.  We may also set nets from the shore in that case I will work the the net team.  When They get one on board or in the land net they will transport it to a shore station where volunteers will take any number of health assessments:  blood tests, nasal swabs, anal swabs, etc….  The assessment will take about 45 minutes to 1 hour.  The animal will then be tagged and released.  So tomorrow I hope I will have some up close manatee photos to share!

Ninja Crab

Natalie and I ran across this colorful little guy on one of our nightly walks. He was small as Land Crabs go – about 4-5 inches across the main part of his body. As Natalie and I approached him to get his picture, he made him self as tall as he could (like he was standing up on tip toes). Then he opened his arms wide. It was like you could hear his little ninja voice saying waaaaaaa. Natalie and I bowed to his superior ninja skills.

More Critters

The Cuban Boa

This picture is of a young Cuban Boa that Natalie and I found on one of our nightly walks.  He (she?) is pretty young.  He was about two feet long and somewhere between the size of a quarter and a fifty-cent piece in diameter.  We had an in-service my first weekend here from some biologists from the Toledo Zoo.   They are studying the reptiles of GTMO.  They brought a tub of 21 snakes that were the recent off-spring of one Cuban Boa.  The snakes were about two weeks old and they were not quite as big as the one that Natalie and I saw.  The mother of these 21 babies is about twelve feel long (according to the zoo folks… we didn’t get to see her).  She is a collared snake, so they keep track of her.  In an interesting twist from what we always learned in biology the egg encasing the snake dissolves before it is born… so in effect they are live-births.  

They are constrictors, so they squeeze their prey to death.  Although as we also learned from the Toledo Zoo visit they will bite.  This one wasn’t too interested in either Natalie or I.

Turkey Vultures

The most visible wildlife at GTMO is the turkey vulture.  They are everywhere.  They can be seen in groups of 4 or 5 circling above the terrain, or feasting on a dead hutia on the side of the road.  If they weren’t such a cliche’ for death and scavenging, they would be beautiful.  They soar with the grace of the American Eagle who also eats carrion, but alas they do not have the same respect.  The truth is they kind of give me the creeps.